Exchanging Places--Konstanz, part 2

The location of Konstanz is perfect for launching day-trips and overnight visits to other attractions in the area. We were fortunate to be present for two special occasions: the Swiss National Holiday and the Reichenau Wein und Fischerfest.

For the Swiss National Holiday, we followed our friends by car along the southern (Swiss) bank of the Rhine to Schaffhausen, a town noted for its red wine and for the Rheinfalls, an area of cataracts and waterfalls in the course of the river. While not as large or dramatic as Niagara, the Rheinfalls are similarly approachable by tour boat and beautifully lit at night.

After our boatride, we had some refreshments and enjoyed the traditional music and dancing presented in the festive atmosphere. Later, we would find a location for watching the fireworks, exploding directly over the falls. On our drive back to Konstanz, each riverside village had its own smaller pyrotechnics display in progress.

Insel Reichenau, reachable by causeway, is located in the Untersee, a smaller lake also formed by the Rhine. The island is a boating and fishing center that annually sponsors a festival featuring local wines, lake-caught fish, music, dance, and drama. We found ourselves at long, Hofbrauhaus-style outdoor tables in a stone courtyard surrounded by booths offering their wares. Wine is distributed in souvenir glasses (I still have mine). Frank and I went to a booth to get the three-fish sampler for our families.

That is where I discovered a quirk of the German people. There is no such thing as fair play in a queue in Germany. You will never hear the words, "After you." If you’re not aggressive, you do not advance in line. Luckily, my elbowing and boxing-out skills learned in high school basketball abetted me well here, and I was able to batter my way to the front of the booth.

The fish featured in the sampler were felchen, which resembles perch, hecht, which is pike, and eel. While none is these is a sought-after species in my native New England, I thought they were deliciously prepared. The kids disagreed. They krinkled their noses and headed for the wurst booths.

There is a second island tourist destination near Konstanz, the "flower island" of Mainau. Although privately owned, this insular garden fairyland is connected to the mainland by causeway and is open to the public.