Sunday, October 21, 2007

Galilee to Block Island

Block Island lies twelve miles off the Rhode Island coast. In summer, ferries make the crossing from Montauk on Long Island and New London, Connecticut, but after Columbus Day, the Galilee boats out of Snug Harbor are the the only choices available.

"Traditional ferry" is a euphemism for "slow ferry", but the only possibility for those bringing their vehicles. On my previous visits I'd brought only a bike and a backpack, but this time we were not traveling light. This is the only ferry I've ever had to drive on in reverse; most are double ended.

Leaving Snug Harbor in Galilee, we passed a row of draggers waiting for their legal season to begin. The season for draggers and trawlers on the Grand Banks is severely limited by conservation laws. There is even controversy over the size of the net mesh.

Snug Harbor is snug because it is protected by two sets of jetties. They weren't much needed on this warm, calm October day.

Passing the fishermen on the end of the outer jetty, we could see the island clearly, twelve miles offshore.

Eastward stood the Point Judith Lighthouse. Beyond it would be the island of Jamestown and Aquidneck Island, where Newport is situated.

Forty-five minutes later we were approaching Block Island's Old Harbor, with some of the grand old hotels visible.

The Spring House Hotel

Block Island's settlement is called New Shoreham. Most of the town's businesses and hotels grew along the old harbor and its ferry terminal. More recently, a salt pond on the north end of the island was opened to the sea, forming New Harbor, less commercial and more recreational.